There’s no lack of places to visit in Tokyo, but sometimes, we just have to get away. For Memorial Day weekend, our family of three rode a bullet train north through the countryside of Japan so we could spend a couple of nights in Nagano. No snow monkeys this time. Instead, we got a taste of a festival that only happens once every seven years. That was pure serendipity: I planned our trip before I even knew about the Zenkoji Gokaicho.
Story time: Zenkoji Temple was founded in the 7th Century and houses what is believed to be Japan’s very first Buddha statue. According to the legend, a grateful father in ancient India had the statue made in the image of the Buddha Amitabha, who had cured the wealthy merchant’s gravely ill daughter. With time, the statue travelled to Korea and then to the Emperor in Japan. During a conflict, it was thrown into a moat. Later, it was found, rescued and enshrined where Zenkoji now stands.
The statue is so precious that it is kept hidden from all eyes, even from the temple’s priests, but once every seven years a replica, the Maedachi Honzon statue, is displayed for a period of about two months. This year it is from April 5-May 31.
To see Zenkoji Temple, we took a leisurely stroll from our hotel (Hotel Metropolitan Nagano) at the train station on through the city. The crowds thickened considerably as we drew closer to the temple. A sacred pillar, called the Eko-bashira Pillar, is on display in front of the Main Hall of the temple. We watched as worshipers touched the pillar, which is connected by a special rope to the Maedachi Honzon statue inside the temple. They believe that when you touch the pillar, you connect with Buddha.
I’m sorry to report that we did not set eyes on the replica. We did stream along with the crowds into the temple’s vast dark interior but decided not to wait in the very, very long lines to attempt to see the statue. I’m disappointed that we didn’t, but it was a hot day and we had a 5-year-old with us and a fair amount of confusion over which lines led where. That said, I appreciated the excitement of the crowd around us and enjoyed being a part of what is clearly a joyous occasion in their religion.
We spent the next day in Matsumoto, but on the following day, we had a few hours between checking out from our hotel and our bullet train departure. We chose to take another stroll toward the temple. Nagano was buzzing. Tents were getting set up along the road with craft and food vendors and several outdoor venues were hosting performers. At the temple entrance, we veered away and followed side roads. I’m so glad we did. We came across a series of homes, shrines and hotels with beautiful entrances. Each was more delightful than the one before.
On our return walk, we were drawn forward by the sound of drums. Soon, it became clear that we had stumbled onto a festival procession. Groups of men and women were carrying mikoshi. Each one looked a little different, but the ornately decorated boxes are designed to carry a deity inside, traditionally during a festival. I was fascinated to see this ritual in person. We’ve seen mikoshi on display, and my son and I watched a version of it when we went to a festival-of-festivals in Tokyo Dome, but this was the first time we’ve seen the tradition up close.
The volunteers wore colorful clothing and headbands and chanted as they walked. They also sweat. It was clear the mikoshi are not lightweight — gods must be heavy to carry — and they rotated in and out of carrying duty pretty regularly. We watched as they all swayed past us and then swayed back again. It felt like organized chaos.
I loved seeing the ritual but what I enjoyed most was watching how much those participating were enjoying themselves. Sure, some of them looked exhausted, but most looked pleased to be an integral part of an ancient tradition. This wasn’t just a re-enactment: It was sweaty and messy, real and palpable to everyone whose shoulders were getting bruised by those heavy poles. The Japanese aren’t afraid to put a little muscle into their faith.
At one point during a pause in the parade, a group of the volunteers spotted my son and invited him to join them. He hesitated momentarily but was persuaded by their friendly smiles.
We had a train to catch so couldn’t linger as long as we might have liked. The deities were still in transit when we departed. Our journey back to Tokyo was a little smoother and definitely quieter.
IF YOU GO:
For details on the Zenkoji Gokaicho event: www.gokaicho.com/english
For more information on travelling by rail from Tokyo to Nagano: www.jreast.co.jp/e/shinshu
For details on visiting Nagano: www.japanvisitor.com/japan-city-guides/nagano-city-guide